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Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) – Effects & Uses

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a simple sugar compound used as the active ingredient in self-tanning products, giving the skin a tan without sun exposure.

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Things worth knowing about "Dihydroxyacetone"

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a simple sugar compound used as the active ingredient in self-tanning products, giving the skin a tan without sun exposure.

What is Dihydroxyacetone?

Dihydroxyacetone (abbreviated as DHA) is a simple organic compound belonging to the group of sugars known as trioses. It is a colorless, water-soluble powder that occurs naturally as an intermediate in carbohydrate metabolism. In the human body, DHA is produced during the breakdown of glucose (glycolysis). In the cosmetic industry, dihydroxyacetone is best known as the active ingredient in self-tanning products and is considered the gold standard in sunless tanning.

Chemical Properties

Dihydroxyacetone has the chemical formula C₃H₆O₃ and is one of the simplest sugar molecules (trioses). In its pure form, it appears as a white crystalline powder and is readily soluble in water and alcohol. In solution, DHA predominantly exists as a dimer, meaning two DHA molecules combine with each other.

Mechanism of Action in Cosmetics

The tanning effect of DHA on the skin is based on the so-called Maillard reaction (also known as non-enzymatic browning). In this process, DHA reacts with free amino groups in the proteins of the outermost skin layer, the stratum corneum (horny layer). This chemical reaction leads to the formation of brown pigments called melanoidins, which give the skin a brownish color.

The coloration affects only the dead cells of the stratum corneum.
The tan develops after approximately 2 to 6 hours and reaches its peak after 24 to 72 hours.
Since the stratum corneum continuously renews itself, the tan typically lasts 5 to 10 days.
DHA provides no or very minimal UV protection (SPF below 2) and does not replace sunscreen.

Medical and Therapeutic Use

In addition to its cosmetic use, dihydroxyacetone is also used in medicine, particularly for conditions involving impaired skin pigmentation:

Vitiligo: In this condition, the skin pigment melanin is absent in certain areas of the skin. DHA-containing products can help to visually even out the affected patches.
Albinism: DHA can also be used here to cosmetically align skin tone.
Scars and hypopigmentation: DHA can help conceal light-colored scars or unpigmented skin areas.

Application and Safety

DHA is approved as a safe cosmetic active ingredient by the European Commission and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). It is generally well-tolerated and rarely causes skin irritation. However, a few important points should be noted:

DHA should not be applied to mucous membranes or near the eyes, mouth, or nose.
Inhalation of DHA sprays should be avoided, as long-term studies on potential effects on the respiratory tract are still pending.
People with known hypersensitivity to DHA or other ingredients in self-tanning products should conduct a patch test before use.
Pregnant and breastfeeding women should consult a healthcare professional before using DHA sprays on large body surfaces.

Dihydroxyacetone in Metabolism

Beyond its cosmetic significance, dihydroxyacetone plays an important role in human metabolism. As dihydroxyacetone phosphate (DHAP), it is a central intermediate in glycolysis and gluconeogenesis. It is produced during the enzymatic breakdown of fructose-1,6-bisphosphate and is further used in the body for energy production or for the synthesis of glycerol (a building block of fats).

References

Fesq, H. et al. (2001): Dihydroxyacetone in a new formulation -- a powerful topical and safe product for sun-independent tanning. In: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 23(3), 155-163.
Petersen, A. B. et al. (2004): Dihydroxyacetone, the active browning ingredient in sunless tanning lotions, induces DNA strand breaks, cell-cycle retardation and apoptosis in human skin cells. In: Mutation Research, 560(2), 173-186.
European Commission: Annex IV of EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 -- colorants permitted in cosmetic products, as of 2023.

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